I think there was crimping and stuffing even before I got to it, then I may have made it worse. I can't see anything that looks too bad but you never knows. The battery accepted the charge by the way, it took a while, so I assume the contact points are okay, though the hot lead looks a little beat up.Aussie Dave wrote: ↑Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:07 pmRock, when i pulled my battery out to help solve a query about replacement batteries, I noticed it came out easy (the ECU stands up out of the way).
But...... I struggled to get it back in, and the ECU plate would not sit flat again. I found I had caught part of the +ve side wiring harness and it was jamming tight between the battery and holder. Once I tied this portion of wiring away, the battery slipped in effortlessly and the ECU fell into place easily. I hope the wiring on yours hasn't been crimped/pulled/cracked...... if this occurred on your bike..(it is in a plastic sleeve so woud be hard to inspect).
I'd watch that volt readout on your dash..... I think it's in the General or Favorites menu....... it should show 10.5v or better while cranking and 14v with engine idling at 1500rpms. If not then there is either a battery problem or the alternator is not pouring enough juice into the system or the regulator rectifier has gone wobbly. This method of checking the 'cold cranking' (or first start in the morning) is basically a load test on the battery and anything under 9.5v means the battery is about to die or hasn't got enough grunt to turn the motor and provide spark. Batteries can be sneaky little buggers - showing 12v on a voltmeter with engine off, but they collapse under load (a good/new battery will show 13v across the terminals and 11+v cranking). Terminals must as the other Dave said, be spotlessly clean and also the +ve & -ve lead ends must be clean.
Lets us know what is happening eh?
Ps just remembered, the battery terminal 'posts' (the lead posts) can break...... mine flex a bit as I check the terminals are bolted tight....... could be a hidden fault inside/out of sight. Does your battery tender indicate the battery is accepting charge?
Dave, the bike never started so I don't know what the charging volts would be. When it last ran on Monday it was hitting 13.9/14 so at least the charging system was working good. I think the battery not being sufficiently charged (it just finished charging now and is supposedly at 100% according to my charger) and the recent oil change made it hard to turn over and the attempts drained the battery. I told the dealer to put lighter oil in and he was like "nah." Nah this f'cker! I'm sure that has something to do with it. It's been under 45 degrees here consistently and new heavy synth oil probably did not help. I've read on the other forum that the bike didn't start with heavy oil at 40 degrees, But still, the battery seems to struggle. It has since I got the bike.
I'll pop the battery back in tomorrow if I can and see what happens. Maybe the jump from the car was unsuccessful do to the ground not contacting enough grounding metal.