newbe intro

Introduce yourself : 1050, 1190, 1190R or 1290 for starters
JJay51
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Re: newbe intro

Post by JJay51 » Tue May 26, 2015 7:59 pm

The 1190 with ktm steering damper does the same at around 130mph (so i'm told) ;)

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Wed May 27, 2015 7:17 pm

So I had arrived at spring pre load settings of 9 turns in on the front and 4 turns in rear - to find a balance that reduced the fore / aft pitching on the brakes - but it wobbles at around 90 mph
going back to 5 turns front and back has calmed down the wobble - even tried riding along the white line to induce it - but other than the usual "loose" feel it was fine
What have I learned ?
1) this is not a bike that you'll find a generic set up that works for single / two up - road / offroad, you got to dial in to meet each condition - basically its not a universal Honda :)
2) more confirmation I need to stiffen up the front springs to help on the pitching - but its not so simple as this - I'd expect it to wobble again, so looking like i'll also have to drop the front forks through the yokes to get the ride height and balance compensated

I also vented the forks for good measure - maybe this contributed

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Re: newbe intro

Post by kevxtx » Thu May 28, 2015 4:59 am

I would be looking at adjusting the rear shock settings, this will help the front end.

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Thu May 28, 2015 10:12 am

kevxtx wrote:I would be looking at adjusting the rear shock settings, this will help the front end.
thanks Kevin - raise the rear ride height to put more weight on the front ? - i'll try this next

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Re: newbe intro

Post by kevxtx » Thu May 28, 2015 10:41 am

By doing that you are changing the trail angle & making the front end more twitchy, I would be slowing down the rebound down on the rear shock to stop the front from being twitchy.

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Thu May 28, 2015 6:49 pm

kevxtx wrote:By doing that you are changing the trail angle & making the front end more twitchy, I would be slowing down the rebound down on the rear shock to stop the front from being twitchy.
makes sense - i'm not having any issue with a "twitchy" front end - feels like there's a lot of safety in the set up with respect to this - it was ( as in now sorted) weaving at the 90 mph ish steady speeds - 100% down to the imbalance I had on the front / rear preload settings
Today I tried the std sports settings and reminded myself why this doesn't work for me - do you recall as a kid giving yir mate a wedgie :) - same effect - and it was part to do with this that I ended up on the high front / low back setting
The seat pitches you fwd all the time - my breek's grip to the seat - my arse and nickers don't - hence a wedgie.
I'm begining to sound like a right anarak here :) no worries - I am being super critical this summer because next yr I'll be doing long trips and i've got to find the right set up
its all good info before I start tweaking things in the winter
so in addition to front springs - add - re shape or raise the front of the seat
soon be ready for the 1st oil change - cripes the miles rack up when your having fun

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Wed Jun 03, 2015 1:56 pm

thats a decent few miles on the conti's - and loving them - very neutral and confident, now got a new fear - left hand corners on country roads - i'm going to get the LH bar end caught in the grass banks :)

And I've got to keep reminding myself when i've got the panniers on - my score card for pinging car mirrors when filtering is growing
Aquired a set of front crash bars - wanted because they look good - in orange - but they are sitting on the bench - actually fitting them is not high on the priority - suspect vanity versus function got the better of me
Otherwise - not a lot new, - i've set the suspension back to normal versus sports setting - it works better - i'm not getting my nicker's pulled up my arse by the seat and the high speed weave is acceptable
Basically I've got the gist of this thing now - stop fiddlin and enjoy riding - until the winter time

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Fri Aug 07, 2015 12:11 pm

just dropping in with not a lot to add - clocking up the miles, enjoying every one of them - still looking for any excuse to take the KTM out - and that is a sign of a good bike
I stopped tinkering at my last post, just get out there and enjoy it. In doing so, the stall stumble around 5K has all but miraculously disapeared :shock: :) either the ECU has self adapted - or my brain has
Last oil change I went for 10W40 - heat in Scotland this summer has not been an issue :( - anyway i'm going to revert back to a 10W50 - the engine just seems a bit more mechanical with the 10W40 - its minor but something is there
Big lesson!!! - don't annoy folks with smaller KTM enduro's on dodgy damp back roads - they will spank you, had a great tussle with one a few weeks back - he didn't like being passed on a more open A road, when we switched to B type - I had great fun - and found new limits for the 990 - but the bugger in front kept in front

And a few days back - I got my 1st puncture - started off by a new vibration = let the speed wind down and find a place to stop - ok rear puncture - no sillyness occured = good, I got her home with a can of punture repair gloop - but couldn't go above 30 mph due to the vibration :?: - no bloody wonder - the tube wasn't punctured - it was completly fooked, torn in half and all balled up in one spot. I was amazed the gloop kept the tyre up acting as a tubless rim - now this is not a recomendation to run without a tube, but it is good to know it will seal up enough to get you home -- she was telling me something - the rear brake pads were just starting to find metal contact but thats a heck of a way of establishing a brake pad wear warning - hayho - new pads fitted
Right off to enjoy more fun, I really must go and try changing the ECU program - just to try, before she goes off the road for the winter - but - but, if it ain't broke - and it ain't - maybe next yr

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Sat Aug 08, 2015 4:49 pm

So I took the tube out after my puncture - I hadn't ridden the bike since repairing it - after 2 days tyre was flat :cry:
now I can not find a bubble, a mark, valve - not a leak or even a sign of a nip on the tube - but fitted a replacement anyway - now this one pumped up fine - held pressure for an hour or so - so went to nip up the valve nut and got a bit of a hiss- wiggles the valve and deflated the tyre - OK i've nipped the new tube, but its the way the wheel held pressure like a tubeless rim that was surprising

Lesson ? - inflate the tube until the tyre is beeded, deflate and wiggle the valve stem to get any trapped air between the tyre and the tube vented - reflate tube
the mystery none leaking deflating tube will remain a mystery - must be a tiny perforation that I can't see and it needs pressure for it to open up - strange - never seen this before - the bubble test has always previous found the fault - hayho
3rd tube is good - today :roll: :)

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Re: newbe intro

Post by JJay51 » Sat Aug 08, 2015 5:03 pm

nlovie wrote:So I took the tube out after my puncture - I hadn't ridden the bike since repairing it - after 2 days tyre was flat :cry:
now I can not find a bubble, a mark, valve - not a leak or even a sign of a nip on the tube - but fitted a replacement anyway - now this one pumped up fine - held pressure for an hour or so - so went to nip up the valve nut and got a bit of a hiss- wiggles the valve and deflated the tyre - OK i've nipped the new tube, but its the way the wheel held pressure like a tubeless rim that was surprising

Lesson ? - inflate the tube until the tyre is beeded, deflate and wiggle the valve stem to get any trapped air between the tyre and the tube vented - reflate tube
the mystery none leaking deflating tube will remain a mystery - must be a tiny perforation that I can't see and it needs pressure for it to open up - strange - never seen this before - the bubble test has always previous found the fault - hayho
3rd tube is good - today :roll: :)
And there was me thinking everyone knew that :mrgreen:

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Thu Aug 13, 2015 6:42 pm

3rd tube which is the mystery deflating one now - about 400miles and 5 days - still perfect
however - the mystery is no more - cunning piece of Holmes 8-) -eh no!, more like Clousaeau :oops:

daft twat - I have angled valve extensions - - what did I pump through this thing ? - yip the tyre gloop to get me home - fit extension = flat tyre - don't fit = not flat tyre
hayho happy to be daft when it sorts a niggle

the 400 mile run was also a good result - my good lady - who found the std KTM seat ok for maybe 100 miles - however with the tourtech seat - no worries at all, thats another bit of the long distance tour list sorted

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Thu Aug 20, 2015 1:21 pm

just a quick note to myself - as this is has become my bike record
oil consumption: after x 2 changes - i'm averaging 0.5litre or less per 5000 miles - I like this 8-) hate a bike that drinks that I also do high miles on - fine on a short run sports bike, but i don't want that niggle for longer journeys - and I don't - another positive for this engine

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Sat Mar 26, 2016 5:40 pm

just a quick note to say - well nothing really, sprayed the bike with ACF 50 and run the bike over the winter, not something i've done in a long time - but it's been a mild one
The ACF 50 actually does work - very well - its not a snake oil :) - no alloy fur or rusty spokes - only down side is I got some on the discs which turned the brakes into wooden blocks - a good degrease and scrub with wire scrubber, including removing the pads an given them a hot soak n scrub sorted this out
So the Adventure just keeps chugging along racking up the miles - now due its next service = oil valve clearance and air filter
did I previously mention the benefit of a scott oiler ? - ok i'll mention it again ;) ugly mucky thing that's also brilliant - free of charge given it pays for itself in chain life, never mind the hassle free always lubricated chain - it ran dry once, you only realise how nice it is once the chain dries up a bit and you feel a new vibration
anybody have any doubts about the reliability of this bike into high milage, I did - yi got nothing to fear - solid hardworking engine that keeps ticking along - steady mpg, and still next to no oil consumption - did Honda help design it :) joke

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:03 am

a couple of updates are due - a dooh moment and a "nice one" moment
lets get the the dooh cleared 1st :oops: the cap for the RH casing that enables access to the crank end - shit, it looked like i'd crossed the thread, closer inspection = it looked like the thread was full of some thread lock - ok apply a bit of heat to help clean it ? - DO NOT DO THIS! - its bloody made of plastic :lol: - no worries the minor bit of distortion I caused gave the thread enough bite to enable it to torque up

The nice moment ? - see this Tune ECU thing, isn't it great 8-) - had a great run yesterday on a different bike, I can now open the throttle as and when and where I like - without always sensing for the bulk to occur, especially around the 5K mark - now it just pulls cleanly any time any place
There's also a stronger more linear torque, especially lower down, combo of both aspects = halved the necessary gear changes - TBH I think i'm going to go up on a tooth at the front, it doesn't need the lowered gearing anymore to aid low speed smooth delivery - - seems to me all the above is mainly switching closed loop off i.e. caused by the transition from closed to open managment - whatever - it works - it works very nicely and i'm loving it
oh! and I do like the added orals from the open airfilter 8-)

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Re: newbe intro

Post by JJay51 » Thu Apr 21, 2016 8:11 pm

Sounds like your getting it dialled in proper now

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Sat May 07, 2016 8:10 pm

well my brain loved it but my wallet didn't - cripes it drinks petrol
so i've re installed the decibel reducers knocked the acro map back 2% on the F and L tables and i've stuck the 2nd butterflies back in - must stop changing two things at the same time
TBH its annoyingly boomy without the reducers
1st run today, still got the nice throttle response ( i'm presuming the previous wonky response was due to the closed loop switching to open loop) - it does seem to have lost a tad of that "honest it doesn't have carb's but its hard to believe" feel that the initial akro map without 2ndry's gave, maybe its just me
anyway i'll run a few tanks worth and see if i'm finding a happy middle ground - not hearing or feeling anything that suggests i'm on the lean side - suggestive I know, without seeing the AFR - but go find a dyno shop up my way with someone who actually knows what their doing other than "increase the boost mate" :)
If this improves the consumption - maybe i'll fit a wide band gauge - got to use the lambda sensor boss for something, in the real world I spend a lot of time riding steady state in a pritty narrow throttle / RPM range so it would be worthwhile focussing on this area whilst keep the go faster area on the rich side
plenty to play with this yr

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Mon May 09, 2016 6:01 pm

well my wallet has got a bit of its mojo back 8-) - and i'm now dangerously confident with this ECUtune
after two tanks of +/- typical riding ( 80- odd run up to 115) i'm seeing approx 20% mpg improvement for knocking the fuel maps back 2% + adding back 2ndry throttle
so - I know where the "oh my god I can't believe its not a set of flat slide pumpers on her" 8-)
I know where the good mpg exists
and I know a bit in between
plenty more to play with

Do not do this - 2% cut back across the range is too much - attempts at WOT accel 5K to 7K i'm hearing that nails in a tin sound that to me is pinking - for clarity i've got the ITG filter + BOS pipes with decibel reducers inserted running open loop only c/w 2ndry butterflies active but set at 100% above 3500 rpm using std 95ron fuel

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Sun May 15, 2016 3:05 pm

more old news for those who know and new news to me :)
symptom = random idle - at times climbing to 4K
solution = re set throttle position sensor, mine was at 0.71V closed position - now 0.6V
now - there is lots of web info on this subject - try this, try that - all I can say is the best and most accurate info that worked for me - when all the other idea's didn't - is on here from Kev
twiddling with the TPS and throttle cables may work for you - but for me, the only thing that did was to do it using tuneECU - in my mind ref: a post on this by Kev makes the best sense - basically the way I see it, doesn't matter what you twiddle - the computer says (you need to watch little britain to appreciate the sarcasm :) ) - if the ECU has adapted to where it wants to set idle speed - and you go twiddle - it will always go back to the stored value, this may now be at 5 or 6 or 3 K rpm - yi got to link up to the ECU and get it to store the new info - get rid of the old and in with the new, plenty idea's out there that suggest you don't - maybe they were twiddling within the ECU +/- adaption range - I dunno, if so then that to me is luck

but bloomin ek KTM, boy did you make this simple task a right bugger to achieve, you could have given us a few extra inches of wiring to help get into the connector to make the measurement

Oh! forgot, also sorted out my notchy gearchange by clearing out the oil jet - again - KTM, yi buggers - spat my dummy a few times trying to get the jet out :evil: ended up pumping it out by a quick fire up, do this if your dare :lol: - you'll spend less time fishing about the mess trying to find the jet versus trying to pluck it out

I am finally getting this KTM servicing thing - save it all up for the next shim check and do it all when you've got the body work off the bike 8-)

oh - and did I manage to have a doh moment - yes indeed :( "do not squeeze the clutch when you have the slave cylinder removed" - ok - got that, at least until I fired the bike up - ref: above = cost me x 1 new cylinder, hayho I always wanted one of them shiny orange oberon cylinders 8-) an after mucho tribulation - should I go for Tesco's extra virgin or just the std olive oil ? - hmm std gave the nicer clutch feel - the cheap stuff it was then
Last edited by nlovie on Mon May 16, 2016 7:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: newbe intro

Post by nlovie » Mon May 16, 2016 11:01 am

you'll gather this has become by blog dump :)
here's a quirky one: I've noted a couple of times connection issues with TuneECU - now i've no real idea why, computers - I hate them :evil:
but one thing I have noticed that may or may not be related ( I also observed this when tuning saab's via T5suite - same basic issue)
they are sensitive to battery voltage
one time I failed to make connection - I was on 12.2V
latest attempt that failed - I had a charger on fast charge and was putting out 15.3V
in both cases - getting the battery to somewhere between 12.7V and 13.8V = seems to work - as said maybe a quirky co incidence dunno - worked for me

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Re: newbe intro

Post by JJay51 » Sun May 22, 2016 9:20 am

No you are correct the glitch is linked to battery voltage, usually did any tunecu work with full battery and headlamp disconnected

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