Clutch problem
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- 500cc
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- Country: USA
- City: Denver
- Year: 2016
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Clutch problem
I've got a brand new SDR that I had the dealer install a 16t sprocket on before it was even ridden. No idea if they may have let some air in somewhere.
On my first ride I noticed it very difficult to find neutral and it needed quite a bit of gas to keep it from stalling. I bled the clutch and seemed like there was quite a bit of air in the line but haven't ridden becuase I don't want to stress the gearbox, because it feel like it's not fully engaging (or is it disengage?) when I pull the lever in.
On my first ride I noticed it very difficult to find neutral and it needed quite a bit of gas to keep it from stalling. I bled the clutch and seemed like there was quite a bit of air in the line but haven't ridden becuase I don't want to stress the gearbox, because it feel like it's not fully engaging (or is it disengage?) when I pull the lever in.
- Gimlet
- 900cc
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Re: Clutch problem
Let the dealer look at it. Could need bleeding. Could have a dodgy clutch slave. They are prone to it. Mine had a new one under warranty.
It its got air in the system it should have a lever that feels spongy or has too much slack at the start of the travel.
If the lever feels firm but the clutch isn't fully disengaging there could be something else wrong with the slave or the rod.
Take it back to them and let them sort it out. That's what warranties are for.
It its got air in the system it should have a lever that feels spongy or has too much slack at the start of the travel.
If the lever feels firm but the clutch isn't fully disengaging there could be something else wrong with the slave or the rod.
Take it back to them and let them sort it out. That's what warranties are for.
- NiteKreeper
- 900cc
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Re: Clutch problem
This is the correct answer; it sucks, but this isn't something you need to be fixing...Gimlet wrote:Let the dealer look at it...Take it back to them and let them sort it out. That's what warranties are for.
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- 500cc
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Re: Clutch problem
There was a lot of slack at the beginning of the travel (felt almost like a cable clutch), I know that, I'll check it when I get home to see if it went away and it did feel spongy from what I remember. If bleeding it didn't help are there any quick fixes like trying to bleed the master?
I won't mess with it for long before taking it in but if it's something simple I'd rather try it myself before giving it to the dealer for a month + getting it there and back.
I won't mess with it for long before taking it in but if it's something simple I'd rather try it myself before giving it to the dealer for a month + getting it there and back.
- Gimlet
- 900cc
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Re: Clutch problem
If you insist, try reverse bleeding from the slave back up to the reservoir. If you can get a firm lever and it gradually slackens again but very slowly, that's almost certainly the slave. That's what mine did. A miniscule leak at the back of the slave which drew a tiny amount of air into the system on each lever pull without measurably dropping the fluid level.
My dealer bled the system twice before trying a new slave O ring then finally fitted a new slave which has been fine ever since. Others put a new slave on straight away.
My dealer bled the system twice before trying a new slave O ring then finally fitted a new slave which has been fine ever since. Others put a new slave on straight away.
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- 500cc
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Re: Clutch problem
Another thing I keep hearing about using is mineral oil. Why does it day DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid on the cap?
- NiteKreeper
- 900cc
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Re: Clutch problem
Wait.KiT wrote:Another thing I keep hearing about using is mineral oil. Why does it day DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid on the cap?
Where are you putting mineral oil, exactly?
- Gimlet
- 900cc
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Re: Clutch problem
Because that's what you're supposed to use. KTM stopped using mineral oil a couple of years ago and switched to dot hydrualic fluid. My SMT uses mineral oil but the Superduke uses dot 4. Don't mix the two.KiT wrote:Another thing I keep hearing about using is mineral oil. Why does it day DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid on the cap?
That's another good reason to let the dealer sort it out. If they burn your paintwork with hydraulic fluid, they will replace it. If you do it you're stuck with the damage.
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- 500cc
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Re: Clutch problem
In the clutch lineNiteKreeper wrote:Wait.KiT wrote:Another thing I keep hearing about using is mineral oil. Why does it day DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid on the cap?
Where are you putting mineral oil, exactly?
http://www.ktmforums.com/forums/rc8-rc8 ... fluid.html
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/w ... id.517297/
It doesn't matter anyway I fixed it myself with DOT 4, there was a bunch of air in the line most likely because the dealer screwed up the slave when they installed the 16t. I don't really feel comfortable letting a dealer fix it unless I have to, they're the ones that screwed it up in the first place.
Thanks for the ideas guys, What a joy to ride now!
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- 675cc
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Re: RE: Re: Clutch problem
They switched in 2016. My 2015 SDR uses mineral oil for the clutch.Gimlet wrote:Because that's what you're supposed to use. KTM stopped using mineral oil a couple of years ago and switched to dot hydrualic fluid. My SMT uses mineral oil but the Superduke uses dot 4. Don't mix the two.KiT wrote:Another thing I keep hearing about using is mineral oil. Why does it day DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid on the cap?
That's another good reason to let the dealer sort it out. If they burn your paintwork with hydraulic fluid, they will replace it. If you do it you're stuck with the damage.