Changing the airbox

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Andy J
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Changing the airbox

Post by Andy J » Sat Jul 15, 2017 9:30 pm

Ive decided to go and remove the airbox and fit something different. Now there a loads of different options on the market, DNA, ITG, Rottweiller, Moto hooligan.

So what is everyone using? Ive heard good reports from all of them but the DNA does seem to stand out. However, its also the most expensive by a long way! Is it worth the extra money?
I will be getting a remap done once the airbox has been fitted. i know i can just use tune ECU but if im going to spend a huge chunk of cash on an airbox im going to match it to a custom map! Also it will improve the low down fuelling!
Unless someone can recommend a map for my set up? Aftermarket cans, sas removed, 2nd flies in place, different airbox.

Just out of curiosity, what sort of gains can i expect from a different induction set up, remap and different cans?

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Gimlet » Sun Jul 16, 2017 10:29 am

I started off with a Rottweiler and switched to a Stage 3 DNA in a moment of mad extravagance. All the foam filters are good but they require washing, drying and oiling at service time. They must be oiled the same way every time with the same type of oil. I used No-Toil bio-degradable which is the official recommended Rottweiler oil. Its sticky stuff but it stays put in the foam and its easy to clean with the cleaning granules.
I tried Motorex foam filter oil once and it made the induction sound very harsh, the bike ran differently and the oil didn't last five minutes. In no time at all the foam felt dry. Stick to the right stuff.
The DNA (it needs to be a stage 3 to have comparable airflow) is easier on maintenance, cleaner, looks extremely sexy and to my ear produced a slightly smoother and less harsh induction noise. When I changed I also added an RC8 stack to the rear cylinder. It did feel slightly meatier in the middle but not massively.
My main reason for changing was that I was sure that with the Rotweiller the engine ran better on some days and in certain conditions than others. There wasn't much in it, but the DNA felt more consistent. I'm not sure the foam filters don't need a deflector of some sort so air pressure around them remains constant. Some kits for other bikes do include shields and baffle plates to this end. The DNA doesn't seem to be affected. BUT, I'm really nit-picking here. If you've got the money, the DNA S3 is a lovely thing to have, its easy to look after and very tough and well made, but the foam filters, properly mapped, are a major improvement on the original.

Yes, definitely get a custom map. While you're at it, remove the SAS system and if you haven't already fit decat straight-through cans. I used Leo Vinces and couldn't fault them. Wings are also good or Akras if you're feeling flush.
I had mine mapped at BSD Performance in Peterborough. He left the second butterflies in place but altered the map that controls them. The fuelling afterwards was flawless and you can have your throttle response as sharp or as muted as you like. Mine was tuned just enough to take the snap out of the transition from off to on but not softened anymore than that so it was still aggressive but clean. They have softened 990 Adventure throttles right down for off-road riding as well. You won't be able to do that with a generic map down-loaded off the internet.
Don't expect massive gains. You might gain 5 bhp and 4 or 5 lb/ft of torque at the most. How much you "gain" will depend on how badly yours was running to begin with. No two bikes are the same and some run better than others out of the crate. That's the benefit of custom mapping: each cylinder on each bike treated individually to obtain optimum running rather than uploading a generic average which is how bikes leave the factory.
You're only correcting the fuel and ignition. You can't make it better than correct and you can't conjure up extra power that isn't there in the engine's current state of tune - that needs hard engineering. You're just releasing what its got and making it work properly.
The greatest improvement is in the delivery. Torque and power curves will feel fatter and smoother, the throttle timing will be greatly improved so you feel a proper connection between the throttle and the tyres and it'll rev cleanly. And it'll sound fantastic... Yes, its worth it.

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Andy J » Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:43 pm

Thanks for that info. It has cans on it, no branding on them but definately aftermarket with removable baffles. Ive removed the sas gubbins and am awaiting a tune ecu cable to switch off the O2 sensors.
Im going to be calling BSD in the next day or two to see what they have to say and get it booked in.
Where did you get your DNA s3? Ive seen a seller on Ebay in Italy who seems to be the cheapest.
Is it ok to run the DNA airbox without a map until i get it done or does it totally mess up the fuelling?

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Gimlet » Sun Jul 16, 2017 2:34 pm

No, don't run the DNA on standard mapping. It'll be too lean. Even my Leo cans affected the fuelling. They claim they don't, but they do.
Bit of a pain if want to ride the bike up. I vanned mine up and fitted the box first myself. Hiring a van was cheaper than getting them to fit the box.

Bought my DNA here:
https://www.motorcycle-exhausts.co.uk/D ... 12356.html

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Andy J » Sun Jul 16, 2017 3:43 pm

I did think it would run lean but wanted to check. The place in Italy on Ebay is doing the St3 airbox for the equivilent of £450 plus £7 postage so quite a saving and being Ebay theres some comeback if theres a problem. I will use my credit card anyway so again if theres a problem there some comeback. And the £75 saving will go someway toward getting BSD to fit it!

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Gimlet » Sun Jul 16, 2017 6:43 pm

Yep they've gone up a bit. My remap at BSD was £330.

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Andy J » Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:26 pm

How long did the remap take? Can you just wait while its being done? Its about 70 miles ride so i dont really want to have to drop it off then have to go and collect it! Plus im guessing a couple of hours to swap the airbox over.

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Gimlet » Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:48 pm

It was a good two hours, probably more.
The airbox can be changed in an hour if its someone who's done it before.
On mine I didn't want the crankcase breather venting into the airfilter and oil vapour getting into the throttles so I blanked off the breather pipe socket in the base of the Rottweiler and vented the breather to the atmosphere using a K&N breather filter.
It you want to do that you'll probably need to supply the K&N and blank off the base plate yourself in advance.
I used a stainless bolt and nyloc nut with appropriate rubber and flat washers for the blanking and cut the breather pipe at the right angle bend so it can be cable-tied in a vertical position to the frame tubes behind the headstock. It works perfectly and keeps the airbox and clean.

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Andy J » Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:13 pm

All booked with BSD for the 7th!

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Gimlet » Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:48 pm

Cool. Let us know what you think.

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Re: Changing the airbox

Post by Andy J » Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:17 pm

Will do. Decided against the airbox in the end! Im still not sure if im keeping the bike beyond next year as i have a real yearning for a 1290 Super Adventure S! Im hoping that getting it mapped will defer my buying a while.

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