Replacement Clutch Master Cylinder (Magura)

[D-train]

Hi there guy's

Just a note to say that after failing to rectify my leaking clutch master cylinder, I went on the replacement route. I first checked out the KTM supply chain and found that a new unit would cost me about $550 and between 4 to 6 weeks to get.... (i.e. Typical KTM Australia service and price).

So I went on line and found a Magura supplier here in Australia (100%moto located in Melbourne). The unit on my 2010 SMT is the 163 model which has been superseded by the new 167 model. I checked out the new Adventure and the smaller 690 and found that KTM has now switched over to this version.

Now here is the tricky bit, if you order a replacement unit make sure that you order the 10.5mm version. The 9.5mm will not have enough throw to disengage your clutch! (Yes I found this out the hard way). Also you need to ensure that you get the micro switch and the mirror clamp. Cost was about $270 and 2 weeks delivered to my door... (i.e. Non KTM Australia service and price)

Installation is easy enough, but I did have to splice in the microswitch to the existing wiring loom as I could not find the plug which is way back some where.

I also took the opportunity to replace my clutch line as the plastic was breaking down. I ordered the 1200mm version for about $110 from 100%moto but when I went to fit it is was short about 30mm. Unfortunately I did not check its length before I fitted it and I might of got the shorter version (1150mm). I overcame this by getting 2 male/female adaptors (metric thread) at my local clutch and break shop and with this extra 30mm all is good. By the way the routing of this is a bitch!.

So I took him for a blast.. err test ride and its great! really easy action and light to use.

For this price, I recommend this if you have a leaky clutch master and want to fix it fast

Here are some picks for you guys

[kevxtx]

Nice work, I am running the exact same 167, 10.5mm on my MT09.

[D-train]

Just a couple more angles

[kevxtx]

[Kirishima]

Nice job!

Just a quick question; does this master use a better piston quality? I've had to replace mine twice in 1,5 years now, and i think that's kinda rediculous.
I've talked to my local dealer and he suggested to have a look at a Brembo master like they use on offroad models (according to him).

If this issue would appear a few more times, i was going to see if i could ditch Magura. But if this one is better than the original, i might consider getting it, and sticking to Magura.

[D-train]

Hi Kirishma

Yes me too! the replacement seals only lasted a few months, at $70 a go (self installed) I didn't want to keep doing that!

The 167 10.5mm version is the upgraded model, so I'm assuming that they have improved the quality as well as the design. It is the same as what KTM has selected for their latest version of bikes.

I think part of the problem might be the oil, some people have suggested that synthetic oil might be better. Magura has their own product called Magura Blood (its red). This of course won't help if you already have a worn out housing....

At the price for a completely new unit supplied by Mugura being under $300, I think this is an excellent solution.

Here is the link to the Australian supplier. http://100moto.com.au

Note Paul although reliable is not a KTM supplier, so you need to tell him clearly what you need, hence my description in my post as it took a few tries before I got what I needed.

But for your case Krishna, you might want to check out a local supplier. I note that in the UK Venhill supply these as well. Here is the link:
https://www.venhill.co.uk/Controls,_Lev ... 0.5mm.html

Good luck

[jayliberator]

I thought I was the only one having a failing clutch master pump twice within a year. anyways, I decided to ditch Magura and went the Brembo route. Although the downside is, the pull is much stiffer. And there isnt a place for the clutch switch. So I can never be able to start the engine in gear with clutch pulled.

[D-train]

Fair call, surprised that the pull is stiffer. I would have thought it may have been even better. The 167 10.5 is much improved and the clutch action is very much reduced in regards to effort. Also very happy with the feel.

[Magic Wand]

Try fork oil 3W or 5W in the reservoir for the master cylinder. I did it when replacing slave cylinder to an Oberon device and it works great.
/M

[D-train]

A year on and another 10,000 kms and all is well with the replacement master cylinder. Total of 63,000km now and counting

[arg]

I've just replaced mine with a 990 Superduke radial one, so now it matches the brake cylinder. Fits with the hand guards fine. If anyone wants to do this, you need to get a hose made up the same as a 990 Superduke but 4.5inches longer.

[D-train]

I've just replaced mine with a 990 Superduke radial one, so now it matches the brake cylinder. Fits with the hand guards fine. If anyone wants to do this, you need to get a hose made up the same as a 990 Superduke but 4.5inches longer.

Got a photo? Should look sweet

[arg]

[D-train]

Very nice

[deforj]

Hey D-Train,

Still good with the magura 167?
I think of doing the same this week, as my original master has gone through 2 repair kits already and is leaking again...

Thanks for the instructions mate.
This thread will be very helpful in the next week...

[Magic Wand]

Hi!

To all you guys that want to use the original Magura unit for some further miles (if the unit is still working...) :
replace the oil in the clutch system to Front fork oil 5w.
Someone suggested that in another thread and I did the replacement.
With 55 000 km on the ODO the original clutch master cylinder is still working excellent.
I have also mounted the Oberon clutch slave cylinder.
(Still using original clutch plates)

/M

[jcsh]

Does anyone know how to remove the Switch from the perch? I just can't see how it attaches. And of course where to get a new one!

[Magic Wand]

Switch from the perch?
Sorry, not familiar with 'perch' - what is it? And what switch are you talking about?

/M

[jcsh]

The perch is the part that attaches to the handlebar, the lever springs from this. I'm asking about how to remove the clutch switch from this mounting.
Thanks James

[Magic Wand]

Aha, I think I got it.
The perch is the clamp mirror and the 'switch' is the clutch lever. Have a look here:

https://www.ktmshop.se/index.php?action ... #partslist

Haven't tried to demount it myself, but isn't is just a screw from top and a nut underneath?

/M